> today there is only one file in the stats subdirectory: dirreq-stats. 
> Is that normal?

I think so, yes. I just checked a healthy relay:

$ sudo ls -l /var/lib/tor/stats
-rw------- 1 debian-tor debian-tor 1412 Feb 17 22:39 dirreq-stats
-rw------- 1 debian-tor debian-tor  185 Feb 17 22:39 hidserv-stats

The second file probably only appears if your relay has the HSDir flag and is acting as a hidden services directory.

Atlas (https://atlas.torproject.org) is another good resource. It shows relays' flags, bandwidth, uptime, etc.